Category: Food
Secret Dream Pozole
I went looking for a pozole joint north of Centro CDMX and walked in circles for about 5 minutes. I decided El Pozole de Moctezuma just didn’t exist and walked away. But then I was compelled to check my phone one more time and walked back. I gave a perplexed look to a nice young couple and the man asked, “pozole?” and walked me to the intercom of an apartment building. I buzzed and they let me in. The people inside were super sweet, which shouldn’t be surprising since they’re Mexican — and they also spoke English. I relatively quickly ordered a pozole verde with maciza (the same, leanish pork that’s used in carnitas), with a whole avocado and a cerveza. I had to google a few things to make sure I didn’t get head meat (cabeza) or what not. The waitress brought it out and quickly came back with a big shot glass, asking if I wanted some in the soup for flavor, to which I obviously said si. It was damn good. I had some pozole last week at La Casa De Toño, which is a chain that sort of feels like the Mexican Denny’s (though much higher quality) and it was very good. However, this stuff was next level. Find the place if you’re in Mexico City. Buzz the buzzer. They’ll make you feel comfortable and right at home.


Just Remembered the Worst Pizza I Ever Tried
My mind periodically goes back to this vile mess in Barcelona and I honestly cannot remember ever having anything worse served to me. A variety of canned vegetables, including white asparagus, on goopy cheese. I took one or two bites, max. I think it’s safe to say one should never try to get pizza in Catalonia or Andalucia.

Dragon vs Cock
As you’ve struggled through the seemingly annual sriracha shortages, you’ve probably found yourself buying a sauce that ends up being significantly inferior to the beloved Huy Fong Foods version, if not downright revolting. I am happy to report that the bottle with the dragon, from Underwood Ranches, is excellent. Underwood is literally the company that made the chilis that Huy Fong used until the legal battles (that caused the shortages). They countersued Huy Fong and was awarded $23million in compensation, so now they have enough money to make a SUPERIOR sriracha, which unsurprisingly tastes like the old version of Huy Fong’s sauce. Side by side, the dragon sauce is more blood red, hotter, a bit better, and gone. I’ve only seen it in Wegman’s.

Kebabs of Flatbush: Turkey vs Palestine vs Afghanistan
The Flatbush neighborhoods of Ditmas Park and Midwood are a bit of a food wasteland compared to the rest of NYC. The highest quality restaurant is a pizza and whiskey place, the incredible Wheated — but you’re not going to find that much else. But there is one exception: middle eastern food. Here’s a quick list of the best options I’ve tried to date:
The unfortunately named Istanblue Kebab House on Avenue J a few doors down from the legendary but now fallen-from-grace DiFara Pizza (RIP Dom!) is a surprisingly great Turkish option. The lahmacun is just absolutely phenomenal but you really cannot go wrong with anything on the menu. The lamb chops, adana kebabs and the like are all grilled to perfection. The times I’ve gone with my girlfriend and/or others they always bring out free extra stuff (e.g., puffy lavaş bread, Turkish tea, desserts). There are numerous locations across Brooklyn but I cannot speak about the others.

Ayat is a Palestinian restaurant with a number of locations across the region and an understandably activist bent (the seafood section of their menu is titled “From the River to the Sea” !!). The best options here are the Palestinian dishes like Lamb Ouzi Royale (a bit like a lamb biryani), Zahr Ma Laban (cauliflower/lamb stew) and Mansaf. As great as it is, I feel like they’ve had some staffing issues because the quality varies from visit to visit.

Dunya Kebab might be my favorite of the three, at least currently. I’ve kept it pretty simple here as my first order here, the basic chicken breast kebab with qabeli-topped rice was is cooked so perfectly each time, I don’t want to stray. The mantu dumplings are also exceptional. I’ll eventually branch out and try more stuff.

This shouldn’t be a surprise but all three use a bit too much sodium in their cooking. I always find myself guzzling water all night after eating at any of the three. So I can’t partake TOO often but they are all great.
How Best to Die – In Person
I decided to pre-game my birthday this year with a half-day course and guided meditation on death. It seemed appropriate and also the topic seemed next -level from the usual helpful classes on emptiness at Kadampa on 24th street. I hadn’t slept well the night before and I’m not sure I got the most out of the meditation – but my girlfriend bought the recording and I’m looking forward to giving it another go. The Buddhists know the score.

When I was asked what I’d like to on my actual birthday, I considered asking her to drive me to Staten Island for some of the city’s best pizza, but I knew I also wanted something sweet with a candle in it, so I settled on the East Village outpost of Staten Island’s Joe & Pat’s, since it was around the corner from the fabulous Danish bakery Smør.
When I noted there was a Joe & Pat’s on First Avenue I was slightly perplexed. From my understanding Rubirosa on Mulberry Street was supposed to be the Manhattan version. I was a little suspicious at first, thinking at perhaps it was fakery along the lines of Patsy’s or Totonno’s, where the only true outlets are the original. However, an internet search confirmed it was real and that Rubirosa was opened by a son or grandson of the original family. Regardless, the cracker thin vodka sauce pizza at First Ave J&P’s slayed. I basically downed the entire large (but thin) pie, as my girlfriend Vibe was avoiding carbs that day and only nibbled. Glorious.

Smør Bakery is part of Smør, the restaurant, 2 doors down on E. 12th Street between First Ave and Avenue A. I’m not exactly sure why they need separate websites and Instagram accounts. Run by two Danes named Sebastian, the baked goods are completely outrageous. The cardamom buns are their incredible signature. They may give you cardamom burps for the rest of the day, which is very much not the worst burp situation you can experience. I ate half a birthday bun and then half of the rhubarb mint cream danish, before devouring the second halves of both immediately. They also have Danish doughnuts (Berliners) and the best Rugbrød I’ve had, which includes any I’ve had on my 3 trips to the Kingdom so far. The restaurant is also A+ with Danish hotdogs, pandekager, an array of smørrebrød, and other scandi treats.

Battling Turks on King’s Highway
During the pandemic, King’s Gourmet on King’s Highway (beneath the Q/B train station) offered me a limited but unique supply of groceries along my morning walks. Decent $8/lb coffee, a small butcher with good quality meats and pre-marinated shish kebab, bulk nuts, pre-packaged Turkish pide bread, and large tins of Valbreso cheese. More recently I’ve become aware of a new, much larger Turkish grocery on the very same block, Okka Foods, so I checked it out. My first impression was this place is sadly going to put the smaller store out of business pretty quickly, with an excellent selection of produce, a bakery department with a wide range of reasonable fresh breads, including a German sunflower bread that I am now addicted to (and cakes that look great but am afraid to try). In fact, it had everything that King’s Gourmet offers at lower prices (the Valbreso at King’s inched up to $18 or $19…but is still $15 at Okka). I started visiting several times a week. There’s a little corner with its own register when you walk in with fresh boreks, which are actually killer, and other pastries. Overall the prices are much lower than any of the shitty Brooklyn grocery stores like C-Town and MetFoods, which a higher-end selection of goods. However, the place is starting to lose me. You really need to look at the expiration dates and check the quality here (a fancy jar of peanut butter was expiring in one week, avocados incapable of ripening, etc.) All that said, hard to see how I’ll stop visiting for select items (e.g., the goddamned sunflower bread).

Pork with a Side of Fascism

I only recently learned there was a Brooklyn outpost of Faicco’s, the pork store with the amazing gigantic Italian sandwiches that I know from Bleeker Street. Perhaps it’s the original store? The Brooklyn Faicco’s does not have sandwiches but they do have a range of fine products, including pork braciola, lard bread, fresh mozz, rice balls and San Daniele prosciutto for $6 less per pound than you’d pay Whole Foods or Wegman’s. And the folks who work there couldn’t be nicer or more helpful. Not sure how to cook that braciola? “I’ll run and ask the guys in the back!” You’re always going to walk out happy.

Separately, the last time I was there, there was a picture of Reagan with the quote, “If we lose freedom here, there is no place to escape to. This is the last stand left on earth.” My girlfriend, who is from a country that one could objectively say is freer than the US (Denmark) found this HILARIOUS and I found it strangely endearing, even though I believe Reagan was a real monster. Sadly this picture is gone and has been replaced with a picture of an oddly fit Trump hoisting an American flag with Nancy Pelosi’s corpse and “RINOs” nipping at his feet. Behind the counter there is a picture of Cowboy Don. I guess the unfortunate truth is that Faicco’s is ALL IN on American fascism and obviously doesn’t care about losing our freedoms here in the USA after all. But I guess it’s not uncommon for Italians to love a good fascist, historically speaking at least.
The real question is, will I be back? Probably.

Stuck in a J-Hole, The Kosher Bagel Hole
The Kosher Bagel Hole of Midwood seems undervalued/undervisited by non-ultra Orthodox Jews, even though (or maybe just because) it is across the street from da deified Di Fara’s Pizza on Avenue J. The lines at the Kosher B. Hole can be long too but they generally move faster, since Dom across the street has been making every pie by hand for fifty years. The bagels are as good as the best in the city.
Wait in line with exotic Semitic characters in the wilds of Midwood. If you get there at the right time of the morning, you may get the most perfect hot bagel in history, even if the whole bag is rarely like that. You just need a few. Crispy on the outside and piping hot on the inside. You know what I’m talking about. The rest of them will be good too.
Whatever you do not eat that morning, SLICE AND FREEZE IMMEDIATELY.

Lines out the door before Passover and an 8 day closure. Check the Jewish calendar for holidays.
Pretty sure these places are not related to the “Bagel Hole” in Park Slope.
Kosher Bagel Hole
1423 Avenue J
Brooklyn
Kosher Bagel Hole
1431 Coney Island Avenue
Brooklyn
Trains: Q to Avenue J
Le Crepe Et La Vie (Pancake Life)
There are a growing number of businesses in Ditmas Park that sell multiple dissimilar things . There’s a bar/flowershop and now a new combination bar/guitar shop. Against all odds, the flowershop bar works great but the idea of drinking in a music store is a horrifying thought. Most of my memories of guitar shops include assholes playing Alex LIfeson riffs and the like — but I guess I could see myself stopping in to buy strings or picks. The latest dual-offering in Flatbush is Le Crepe Et La Vie, a combination creperie and thrift store. Nothing precious or conceptual here, just an older guy who appears to be Greek with his wife running a small thrift store in the back.
I went there with my daughters a few days after they opened and the owner, Konstantino, let them try their hand at making crepes. Although I promised him I wouldn’t tell anyone about it, the pictures are below. Now he’s too damn busy to offer up such things. We were just lucky — and because of his warmth and delicious fucking crepes I’ve been back several times since.
Konstantino is hilarious and always complains about how busy he is, with a proud smirk on his face. I asked him, “You didn’t want to succeed?” I get the feeling he thought he was opening a business as a hobby as he nears retirement age — but now he’s completely overwhelmed because this hood really needed a place like this.
The Best Frozen Dumplings in Bulk
There are several places in NYC to get amazing, real deal pork/leek dumplings in frozen form, usually $10 for 50. It’s great to have them around for a quick snack, side dish, or a meal in a pinch. Kei Feng Fu in Sunset Park’s Chinatown is comparable to Manhattan revered Prosperity Dumpling. My kids rated these, slightly smaller potstickers higher than Prosperity, in an unintentional, side-by-side taste test (I was running out of one or the other).
The best dumplings might be from Lam Zhou (144 E. Broadway in Manhattan), though I’ve never purchased the frozen variety. If you’re in Queens, try Lao Bei Fang Dumpling House in Elmhurst, though the last time I was there they seemed a little too doughy.
You really can’t lose with any of these places — but Kei Feng Fu wins Brooklyn for me, so far.
How To Prepare Your Frozen Dumplings
- Fry dumplings in a little oil for 2 minutes
- Add a cup of water and cover
- Cook for 10 minutes* or until water is gone and the dumplings start to sizzle in the pan. If water is gone too soon you might want to add more. You don’t want the raw pork to cook for less than 10
* 2024 note: a comment in 2018 said “My Lord, please do not cook them for 10min. Adjust to 2 tablespoons of water, it shouldn’t take more than 5min for the water to boil off. Leave in pan until you smell toastyness (like toast Browning). Source: am Chinese, have been cooking dumplings for 10+years.”
Kei Feng Fu
4801 8th Avenue
Brooklyn
Note: The place is on 48th street, not on 8th avenue. It’s the first building around the corner. Look for the graffiti tags that they obviously have no interest in painting over. This is a real dive.
Train: D to Ft. Hamilton
Best Deals: Ba Xuyen
Nothing undiscovered here. I don’t think too many people who’ve tried it would argue that the Banh Mi at Ba Xuyen in Sunset Park’s Chinatown is as good as it gets. These damn sandwiches are also $4.50, tax included. Don’t be stupid, just try this place. Perfectly toasted french bread with grilled pork, meatballs, vietnamese BBQ patty things, more. 8 in all. Pickled daikon, carrots, cucumbers, jalapenos, cilantro, you know the score. And of course the pate, which is what guaranteed that my kids wouldn’t eat it. You can ask them to hold the pate, though I’m not sure why you would want to do this. Start with the number #8 (grilled pork) and work your way up to #1, the kitchen sink option. FrancoViet sandwiches rule.

“My wish is that one day scientists will be able to harness our food photos and turn them into fuel.” – Jon Wurster
Ba Xuyen
4222 8th Avenue
Brooklyn
Train: D to 9th Avenue
Shayna’s Punim
Joyce, owner and cook at Shayna’s Restaurant reminded me a little of my favorite grandma in appearance (but not white, Jewish, or Canadian). Real deal home-cooked Trinidadian food going on in her confines. Her freshly made Roti is one of the best gluten-based objects I’ve found in the borough. I was confused when she asked me if I wanted the chicken wrapped up in the Roti versus on-the-side, so I said yes. Golf-ball-sized pieces on the bone but I don’t think that sweet lady was trying to choke or kill me. It wouldn’t have been possible to pick it up like a burrito. She asked me if I wanted it hot and she didn’t believe me when I said yes. She seemed proud of her chilies so gave me the hot sauce on the side. It was good but not as hot as she claimed and it wasn’t enough. I used it all too quickly, since it was a giant, 1500 calorie Roti, probably. Delicious.
I need to go back and try the Doubles, tamarind-sweetened fried bread filled with curried garbanzos. Apparently they run out quickly in the morning, even though they seem more like a lunch-type sandwich.
She’s soon to be featured in a book about the immigrant experience and hangs with a top chef. Some good pictures of her work here, thanks for the story and the tip Ditmas Park Corner!
Shayna’s Restaurant
907 Church Ave
Brooklyn
Train: Q to Church or F to Ft. Hamilton




