Category: Sights

Secret Art Motherload

Museo Vivo del Muralismo isn’t listed in any guides that I’ve seen. I just happened to pass by while walking around Centro so I looked it up. It’s in a gorgeous old historic building and apparently, when it was the Ministry of Education in 1923, they commissioned Diego Rivera to adorn then place with his art (1923-1928). About 9000 square meters (almost a full kilometer) of beautiful murals all facing a stunning courtyard. There had to be at least 150 of his works in there (out of the 250 or so total). They have exhibits with original aztec murals and more modern stuff as well. How come nobody talks about this place? It’s the only museum in town open on Monday that I know of and it’s free admission. An absolutely amazing place to visit, completely off-the-radar of the hoi polloi. They might want to hire some marketing folks.

Sheinbaum in the House

On Sunday I woke up to people marching by my apt on Madero in Centro with big signs that read “Sinaloa”. Confused, I turned to Google and all I could find were references to drug cartels, including an article that spoke about how they want Trump’s help. What was in fact happening was a massive rally that President Sheinbaum organized, calling on all Mexicans to gather at the Zócalo to hear a speech in response to Trump’s tariff threats. So I walked over to the square and there were 100,000+ people representing different regions. It was a wild and moving scene — but quickly became too overwhelming to be embedded in. People just kept coming and coming. I watched with excitement from my window and also could see/hear the entire speech on a big screen on the corner. After it was over I went back to get some Claudia swag and watch some the bands play from the stage she spoke on, who sounded great. I am so glad that I got to experience this. Swipe for some photos:

Flatbush Movie History

This neo-Tudor house on the corner of Ditmas Ave and Rugby Street was once owned by the world’s first movie star Mary Pickford and her husband Douglas Fairbanks, with whom she started United Artists (along with Charlie Chaplain). Flatbush was the first “Hollywood” in the US, so I assume they wanted to be central to the biz. Vitagraph Studios was on Avenue M near E. 14th/15th Streets. Founded in 1897, it’s a condo now, known as “The Vitagraph”.

Undiscovered Brooklyn Visits Provence

16 days in Provence in September was a good idea. Here is a recap of the top 10 places we visited, as well as a few things to avoid. Overall, it was a good itinerary. We drove around a lot and lucked out with a hybrid vehicle, so the gas bill was cheap. Photo slide show below.

10 Locations Worth Visiting in Provence

Avignon: Stayed here for the duration of the trip. We got an apartment with a parking garage and a balcony with a nice view of the Palace of the Popes. The town is very low-key in a great way. It’s a little bustling around the palace and bridge but never got that bad. Great restaurants and market, good record store. Close to a lot of other great things. What more do you need?

Roussillon: Gorgeous. Ochre overload. Ochre-load. The ‘Le Sentier de Ochre’ hike around rich hues. The ochre buildings in the town are beautiful. Can’t miss.

Around (but not) St. Remy de Provence: The St. Paul’s asylum, where Vincent committed himself to with Van Gogh walk, completely fascinating. Next to it is Glanum, Roman ruins from the first century BC (with Gaul/Salyen roots from 6th century BC). it was destroyed in a mudslide and apparently Van Gogh was painting olive trees there without any idea there was a buried city beneath.  Also behind the asylum is the excellent vineyard/olive oil maker Domaine De Métifiot. Top shelf 00 and Rosé.

Pont du Gard / Uzès: First century roman aqueduct in VG+ condition. Kids playing in the water beneath it. A stunning hike up, over, and back. Nearby Uzès is as charming a French town as you could want. Had a fantastic 3-4 course dinner for next to nothing. Would probably be worth staying only there for a week. We returned for the market day, which was the best of the markets we visited.

Arles: Unexpectedly my favorite city of the trip. Spent two days there. Just beautiful. Adorable micro-Coliseum and other Roman goodies. Stylish old streets. Art everywhere. We were there during their annual photography fest, art photos all over town. Van Gogh painted here a lot, and they kept the square of his first post ear slash hospital garden looking more or less the same as in his paintings. There’s also an excellent sprawling art complex LUMA. Frank Gehry tower, choice exhibitions, places to hang and chill.

Swipe below (captions are basically impossible to read. Sorry.) More destinations below

Aix-en-Provence: From the Cezanne paintings. Famous Madelines and excellent Corsican food. Great market (not as great as Uzès). Cool streets and squares. Overpriced LPs at the flea market.

Cassis: had to see the sea so we went to Cassis. Great location, with many of the usual downsides associated with great locations. Thought about a hike in next door in gorgeous Calanques National Park – but decided 2 hour hike to get to one beach seemed extreme — so we took a nice boat ride from Cassis to see more calanques in less time. I took a dip in the Mediterranean. Had a hot dog with French fries, both on a baguette. We also had to park up the hill and take a bus down/up.

Saignon and Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt: 2 quiet villages of the Luberon that are not too far from each other and both are excellent destinations. Saignon is just gorgeous and the “Saignon Rock” was built by Paleolithic people and was used as an observatory. You can walk up! Photos in slide show. The town Saint Saturnin is low-key and wonderful but at the top are amazing roman castle ruins, an old damn, etc. Visiting these two towns will make for a perfect Provencal day.

Les Baux-de-Provence: rock plateau village, former brutal medieval stronghold and Bronze Age troglodyte village before that (habitation dating to 6000 BC). The town is touristy AF but worth it for the incredible views and wild old ruins

Château La Coste: Winery and art/architecture destination with incredible location/views and a somewhat suspicious array of 50+ works from seemingly every famous living (or recently deceased) sculptor. Very cool, though easy to imagine the evil billionaire owner (hotelier Paddy McKillen) checking off a list. Art…what a racket. Tons of great works but none of it beat the views. Funny that there are works famous sculptors Bob Dylan (I enjoyed his rail car) and Michael Stipe.

Perhaps Avoid in Provence

La Isla de La Sorgue: was very irritating during their overpriced market day. Not that much to see. Everyone takes the exact same Instagram photo in the one picturesque corner. The Venice of Provence? Definitely not.

Gordes: I don’t know. Shrug. Crowded parking lots. Not that interesting. Maybe we didn’t walk down the mountain far enough.

St. Remy old town: Over the top touristy. A few nice fountains, including one dedicated to native crackpot Nostradamus. However, the nearby stuff mentioned above is awesome. Spend your time there. Les Baux is great and not that far, either.

Previously Discovered NY: Niagara Falls

Sometimes when you’re a kid you don’t recognize when you’re emotionally moved by something. You may scoff at an astonishing sight. I remember going on a camp trip to Niagara Falls in the late 70s and asking a counselor: “what’s the big deal?”  

“Are you kidding? It’s incredible,” he responded. Which made me question my tween perspective. It was a moment that still periodically enters my mind to this day, so it must have been an important one. 

45 years later I can now officially report that Niagara Falls is a million times better as an adult than as an ungrateful little shit. Nothing about it is underrated. Yes, the park is touristy and the surrounding area isn’t particularly gorgeous. But holy shit, those falls are going to move you. My girlfriend wept on the ‘Maid of the Mist’ boat – another fabulous must do. 

Go back. Or just go. See it for yourselves. Stay overnight and stop in Buffalo the next day like we did. The Albright Knox museum is excellent. Get a beef on weck for the road. Do it. 

EZ Directions to Basquiat’s Grave

ghost
“This way…but first lie down on the ground and I will show you my face”

Down the road sandwiched between Kensington and Sunset Park/South Slope is historic Green-Wood Cemetery. There are some incredible monuments and tombs dating back to the mid-1800s. Green-Wood loves to have visitors and even seems to boast its own tourism bureau! I actually think they sometimes have activities for kids, so check the schedule. Round up the little ones and bring em down to the graveyard.

To locate Basquiat’s modest resting place, enter the grounds on Ft. Hamilton Parkway near McDonald Ave (Saturday and Sunday until 4 only), or on 5th Avenue for a longer, scenic walk (every day). Make a left when you enter the cemetery (the road is called Border Avenue) and take it to “Grape Avenue.”  When you reach the intersection of “Fir Avenue,” start cutting through diagonally until you reach a row of small headstones.  See map at the bottom of this post for more details

basquiat

Just be respectful. Don’t treat him like you might Jim Morrison.

On the way to locating Jean-Michel, a large tomb caught my eye — and so did the words “The Eminent Minstrel” and “None knew him, but to love him.” Interesting placement of comma. Turns out he was William West, leader of one of the most successful minstrel acts in history. I wonder what that does for racial tensions within the art community resting at Green-Wood.

Billy_West_Minstrelminstrel_poster_billy

Trains:
Closest: F to Ft. Hamilton Parkway (entrance to cemetery only open Sat-Sun 9-4)
Works: N/R/D to 36th Street (take a nice long walk through the length of Green-Wood anyday. Enjoy tons of beautiful things and historic creepy things).

green-wood_map